Pots

The kits all come with quarter inch / 6.35mm round shaft pots.

FaceBook Support Forum

Very helpful bunch of lovely people -  sign up here.

Bypass Types:

STANDARD 3PDT - Our normal 3PDT footswitch. Nice, smooth click and rock solid quality. We've tried hundreds of different types and settled on this one. No issues at all.

PREMIUM GORVA 3PDT - The Ferrari of 3PDT. This does the same job as the standard version, much like a Jaguar F-Type will do the job of a 488, but you can feel where the extra money has gone. As soft a click as you're going to get from this type of switch, and superb reliability.

OPTOPUSS with ALPHA DPDT - Here we have a switch with less going on mechanically, which means less to go wrong internally and a shorter, softer click than standard 3PDT. There's some extra circuitry involved to do the switching, but nothing too taxing.

First up, grab this excellent document from mightyohm.com that'll give you some great tips on soldering and general board fettling. MightOhm.com

Sorry, support is currently limited to basic stuff. We cannot get indepth. There simply aren't enough hours in the day once the orders are processed. If you've already struck out on the Facebook Support Group, we're happy to take a quick look at CLEAR pics including your offboard test wiring once you've gone through everything below before getting in touch via the contact form.

If your build isn't working, check the following:

All the above checked? Time to break out the audio probe and the multi meter and read R.G. Keen's troubleshooting guide

FAQs

These kits are carefully put together to get you as close to the real deal as is possible at a reasonable price. Most of the time they are pretty much identical to the original they're based on whilst, in the case of 'vintage' pedals, using modern components where some are unavailable. However, they are not pretending to be original units.

I don't know how to read resistor or capacitor codes. Why don't you list all the components with colour codes? BYOC do that.

Blindly following join-the-dots diagrams and listed resistor values may get you a working fuzz, but you'll learn nothing in the process. Don't just look at the board and stick in the parts. Learn to read schematics. Maybe find out what each component is actually doing and how they combine to do what they do. The whole experience is much more rewarding when you understand what's going on. Or you can just build the kits, that's fine, but you're going to have to at least look up the resistor values. Maybe those colour codes will sink in. The General Build Guide has all the info you need.

Will you put a kit together for me?

Some of the kits have a 'pre-build it please' option. If not, get in touch. If things are a little slack you may be in luck.

You built me one but I don't like it. Can I return it?

No. You're buying a kit, we're assembling it for you. Once built it is no longer a sellable kit. Sorry.

My build doesn't work - can I have a refund?

No. All the kits work if put together correctly. You've done something wrong. See below.

It doesn't work - can you tell me what I've done wrong?

Best place to head to is the Facebook Support Group. Big fat link at the bottom of the page.

Hey! This transistor / diode / LED doesn't work.

It did. You've applied too much heat when soldering.

Do you design kits to order?

Now and again. If you're a builder and you want some boards designed and manufactured, get in touch.

Can I have a coloured, powder-coated enclosure?

Limited runs of powder coated enclosures will be available from time to time. Check the One-Offs / Specials section.

I'm outside the UK - can you mark the customs declaration with a lower value?

Absolutely not, under any circumstances, so don't even ask. You've already saved by not paying the UK VAT, so be prepared to pay the taxes at home.

Are you really a dog?

No. Don't be silly.